One
way of telling what season it is here is by checking the roads – in Spring you
will find tractors everywhere as it is fruit-picking time, in Summer the roads
are full of tourists enjoying touring the region and now it must be Autumn as
it is time for the ‘Vendange’ (grape-harvest).
The evidence is everywhere; enormous machines can be seen pulling in and
out of the vineyards that favour automatic picking, and trailers over-flowing
with grapes bounce their way along the country roads to deliver their
loads. Obviously all of this activity
comes to a complete halt at ‘midi’ when it is impossible to navigate through
the narrow village streets as the drivers park their tractors and trailers
outside their houses while they go home for a well-deserved lunch!
One
great aspect of Autumn here is the amount of seasonal Fetes and Festivals
around the region. A ‘Fete des
Vendanges’ is held in many villages but the most notable one takes place at
Banyuls-sur-Mer where the wine harvest is brought to the beach in boats, ‘blessed’,
and then the celebrations continue with ‘grillades’, entertainments and
dancing. Food and wine are regularly the
theme of ‘festivals’ so it comes as no surprise that there are many ‘harvest’
related celebrations. Look out for
several ‘Chestnut’ festivals (in Casteil, Amelie-les-Bains and Montferrer, to
name but a few) where you will have the chance to taste the traditional ‘Castagnada’
(roast chestnuts catalan-style). I also
spotted a ‘Fete de Potato’ in Matemale and a ‘Fete de la Pomme’ in Fuilla. There are also a multitude of ‘Fetes de
produits locales’ which are farmers’ markets where local producers showcase
their specialities such as honey, vegetables, wine and charcuterie. The ideal opportunity to sample new tastes
and flavours.
And
we mustn’t forget one of the most important festivals of the season at the end
of this month – no I’m not talking about Halloween (which has only in recent
years been adopted from the Americans) but ‘Toussaints’ (All Saints Day) or The
Festival of the Dead. In the days (and
weeks) leading up to November 1st you will see pots of
Chrysanthemums (both fake and real) on sale everywhere – don’t be tempted to
buy these as a ‘hostess’ gift next time you attend a soirée as these are the
traditional flowers to take to the cemetery on this special day to pay tribute
to the dearly departed.
Autumn
is one of my favourite times of the year here – the beaches are empty, parking
is free again, the waiters stop trying to speak English, and the food and
weather continue to be wonderful. Come
and see for yourselves!